My first memory of Rajasthan is from the time when I was
seven years old, and had gone to attend a wedding. It was Jodhpur , don’t remember
much but , have beautiful blurred images
of a big banyan tree, an old courtyard ,
muffled lyrics of some banna-banni
songs, faint smell of the ever aromatic henna , and really spicy garlic chutney
. Mom tells me, that I had fallen in love with garlic post that trip. The one
thing that left a lasting impression was the ever magnificent Mehrangarh Fort.
The second time I went to Jodhpur was with my family. Again
it was just for a day only , but the food memory was better. I remember my first
taste of Daal Bati. Also vivid images of bright colours, juttis, and the characteristic
sound of the Ravanhatta that made me fall in love with the city. We had gone to
the Umaid Bhawan Palace and the regal palace wasn’t fully converted to a hotel
then and the lobby was still open to public. I was in love with the city, the
architecture and the food. I was fourteen then.
I knew, I will be back again, but didn’t know it would be after 21
years.
A couple of years ago someone told me about the Jodhpur Riff
– A folk festival hosted by the Mehrangarh Fort every year, and I knew I had to
go. This was my calling. Last year (2017) we decided to pack out bags and
headed out for a true regal experience of Jodhpur. My camera was with me and I
knew my diet will go for a toss this trip. Most people think that Rajasthani
food is all vegetarian, But Rajput non-vegetarian preparations are absolutely
Mind blowing, and I knew that I was in for a fabulous treat this trip.
The place to reside was chosen and it was Krishna PrakashHeritage Haveli . The Haveli was walking distance from the old city Clocktower
or the Ghanta Ghar. Most travelers these days (Indians) try to locate
themselves in accommodations near the stations or located in the main city, but
the beauty of waking up in Haveli where the first sight of the morning is the ever Mehrangarh fort, is absolutely unmatched. The Haveli has been refurbished,
has a pool, a gym and some really beautiful room s. Run by Mr Nikhil (it is his
ancestral home); the place feels like you are living in a warm house not a hotel.On the way to the hotel i had already eaten the Pyaaz Kachori that Jodhpur is famous for , Our driver stopped just before the city and we got some good ones . Mind you that didn't stop me from tasting every other kachori in my way (purely for research purposes)
Our first spot was the Osian dunes where the Marwar Festival
was being held. It was a very humble village festival where people gathered on
the dunes and celebrated the full moon and enjoyed their rich cultural heritage.
The Manganyars sang a beautiful bhajan and we were there, on the moon lit dunes,
beautiful weather. Just a tip, be a little modestly dressed, flashy attires
might call for unwanted attention. This could be given a miss if you aren’t too
adventurous. Not much to eat so I can’t say much.
All through the festival, the fort has folk musicians and
dancers sitting in different areas and courtyards and this is open to all
visitor of the palace that too is an experience in itself. While at the fort, do sample the Cafe Mehran
and enjoy some lovely fare, the palace gift shop is also a good idea to buy a souvenir
with the royal crest. I got myself a black t-shirt which has got me some good compliments.
The nice part about Jodhpur, is that the people love their
food , and when you are living in old Jodhpur and ask locals to help you
discover the secrets of the lanes , they warm up to you and share the treasures
of these beautiful alleys . My first encounter was at seven in the morning with Shri Mishri lal Ji’s "Makhania Lassi". This is a dessert, but I had it for breakfast. No, it is
no ordinary Lassi. This almost a shreekhand, topped with hand churned white butter.
And the word that I can use to describe it is "Divine"
Another breakfast Speciality of Jodhpur is the Daal pakwaan.
For those who have tasted the Dhakai Porota, I don’t need to say much, but for
those who haven’t, the Daal is a light yellow chana daal, served with a chili
pickle, onions and lemon. Pakwaan is a thin deep fried paapri of sorts only, 8
to 10 inches in diameter. So crush the Pakwaaan, pour the daal, mix and get transported
to heaven. This is absolutely delicious. Also the Ghantaghar is home to the very famous Trip Advisor Omelette Waala . He makes some yummy eggs . Please don't expect a shop or a fancy restaurant, this is a roadside stall at the Ghanta Ghar, but the man is nothing short of a celebrity. Every tourist knows him.
This was followed by "Arora ke Shahi Samose" (I am in no way related to the owners). These aren’t your regular samosa, and mind you they are loaded. Please don’t ask for
chutney or dip, they might just get offended. These beauties are deep fired parcels
of bliss. They are exploding with flavours and have this balance of spice, hint
of sweetness, richness of dry fruits and tang of amchur. Overall it is a true crowd-pleaser .
Jodhpur also loves it "mirchi wadas" and "koftas", Mirchi wada
is Jodhpur classic and your must go early to find them being fried hot and you
will absolutely love them. This is a true classic and I don’t want to say much
more about it. But if you haven’t eaten a mirchi wada in Jodhpur, you haven’t
been to Jodhpur. Kofta on the other hand,
isn’t a curry. The bonda or aloo wada here is called a kofta here and is a
popular street snack, they come in various fillings and again are power packed,
same rule applies, don’t ask for chutney.
Well, mornings in Jodhpur can be quite a sensation, but if
you are at Jodhpur and you haven’t had the Rajasthani Thali, I think it is a
bit unfair. Most restaurants serve a Rajasthani thali and boast of being
authentic, but the true thali place where locals frequent and a there usually
is a queue, is Gypsy. They have an a la carte restaurant, but on the first
floor is a dining hall that serves the unlimited thali. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting
much, but the churma and the sangri blew me away. The service was quick, efficient
and warm. Although the thali will serve
you dessert, in the same building there is Jodhpur Sweets, which boasts of the
famous rabri ka laddoo. A rabri laddoo is basically, boondi cooked in rabri
till it evaporated completely leaving behind a beautiful caramelized mixture
that isn’t overtly sweet but very rich and had a unique taste of its own.
Another thing I tried there was the rose laddoo and the bournivita burfee,
absolutely loved it. Do not forget to carry so kair sangri pickle from here too.
Tell them that you want to travel and they will vacuum seal the bottle for you.
I have another major problem, if my lunch has been vegetarian;
the dinner has to have non vegetarian fare.
Being in the land of the laal Maas, why think twice. The Kalinga
Restaurant too came with a lot of recommendation from friends and locals. They
did have a stellar laal maas but I’ve had better. What I really liked was the
govind gatta that we were served. It had a beautiful dry fruit pithi stuffed in
it and was in chunky brown gravy.
The food at Krishna Prakash Haveli was pretty good too. I
discovered this beautiful local specialty called Rabori. First I thought it
was thinly sliced papaya or papad, but then Nikhil Jib explained to me that
rabri is made out of maize flour and butter milk. It is dried in the sun in
thin sheets and then cooked in gravy. I picked up some for the house from the market.
Also managed to get lovely mangodi (mung dumpling) which was delicious. If you
are buying some local groceries, do not forget to pick up garlic chutney and
some local digestives too.
Another new thing that I learnt in Jodhpur was about savoury
gulab jamuns. The legendary Chhaturbhuj in Jodhpur makes sweet and savoury
gulab jamuns. They aren’t as brown as I have eaten elsewhere, basically, not
over fried. The jamuns are much heavier yet they melt in the mouth, the savoury
ones are smaller and people buy them by the kilo to make sabzi out of it. I had
a packet of garlic chutney and kept popping these beauties dry.
Another thing that the people in Jodhpur love is their
namkeens. Solanki Farsan shop in old jodhpur had so much to offer that you will
be spoilt for choice .they even have the option of custom making your namkeens
as per your choice from their huge assortment . Do try the lemon pickle from
this shop too, it is absolutely amazing.
Well, I think I have already loaded this story of with way
too much cholesterol, let me just top it ups with one more ounces. When in Jodhpur,
you must have the Motu ki Jalebi. These are thin "jalidaar jalebis" and they have
to be eaten hot, Motu Ji as he is popularly known flaunts his belly and much as
his craft. He calls it his prosperity. I
had a great chat with him and he even posed very gracefully for me.
Enough of food, now let’s talk about some shopping. If you
are staying in old Jodhpur, you will be spoilt for choice, Camel leather juttis
are stunning here. Don’t go for the bright shiny ones, they aren’t leather.
Specifically ask the shopkeeper to twist and show, the guy will know that you
know your stuff. The Ghanta Ghar market is also really good to buy bangles if
you are prepared to carry them all the way back, the old houses some great
antique shops, please bargain. And go early in the mooring, bargains are
better. One can also buy lovely doorknobs, gift boxes, curios. The silver
jewellery is stunning. Please indulge only if you understand silver, or you
might end up buying machine made sterling mass produce. One gets really cheap
leheriya dupattas also. If you bargain, they can come down to as low as sixty
rupees
I am a chef , and I always end up buying local ingredients
to cook with, so what came back with me was Hing , Sangri, Rabori,
Mangodi, Lassun Chutney , Ajwain , Methi , Phophalia, Kariya and tonnes of
memories. Also not to forget four days and four kilos heaver (that isn’t my extra baggage).
Everyone you know will want some "athana mirch" (a local preciality plickle) do
carry some back.
The Palace and the Fort shops have some beautiful goodies
with the royal seal and the royal perfume is amazing too. Don’t worry; they all
accept cards even at the ticket counters. So you have nothing to worry. If you
happen to go during the Riff, please make sure you do attend one full day, from
dawn to midnight. The shades of the day will change the moods of the music and
the Mehrangarh at midnight is one of the most romantic places I think I have
ever been to.
The RIFF by itself
was absolutely enough reason for going, but the city can make you fall in love
with it, while his highness was addressing the crowd at the riff, I could her
murmurs of the people addressing him as Baap ji. The people of the city still
have a lot of respect of the king. Of all the cites in Rajasthan that I have
been to, Jodhpur remains the cleanest, most warm and absolutely gorgeous. I
will be back again soon. This time much
sooner.
Until Then,
Ghani Khamma ...
