Padharo Mhaare Des : Jodhpur

My first memory of Rajasthan is from the time when I was seven years old, and had gone to attend a wedding. It was Jodhpur , don’t remember much but , have beautiful blurred  images of a big banyan tree,  an old courtyard , muffled lyrics of  some banna-banni songs, faint smell of the ever aromatic henna , and really spicy garlic chutney . Mom tells me, that I had fallen in love with garlic post that trip. The one thing that left a lasting impression was the ever magnificent Mehrangarh Fort.

The second time I went to Jodhpur was with my family. Again it was just for a day only , but the food memory was better. I remember my first taste of Daal Bati. Also vivid images of bright colours, juttis, and the characteristic sound of the Ravanhatta that made me fall in love with the city. We had gone to the Umaid Bhawan Palace and the regal palace wasn’t fully converted to a hotel then and the lobby was still open to public. I was in love with the city, the architecture and the food. I was fourteen then.  I knew, I will be back again, but didn’t know it would be after 21 years.

A couple of years ago someone told me about the Jodhpur Riff – A folk festival hosted by the Mehrangarh Fort every year, and I knew I had to go. This was my calling. Last year (2017) we decided to pack out bags and headed out for a true regal experience of Jodhpur. My camera was with me and I knew my diet will go for a toss this trip. Most people think that Rajasthani food is all vegetarian, But Rajput non-vegetarian preparations are absolutely Mind blowing, and I knew that I was in for a fabulous treat this trip.

The place to reside was chosen and it was Krishna PrakashHeritage Haveli . The Haveli was walking distance from the old city Clocktower or the Ghanta Ghar. Most travelers these days (Indians) try to locate themselves in accommodations near the stations or located in the main city, but the beauty of waking up in Haveli where the first sight of the morning is the ever  Mehrangarh fort, is absolutely unmatched. The Haveli has been refurbished, has a pool, a gym and some really beautiful room s. Run by Mr Nikhil (it is his ancestral home); the place feels like you are living in a warm house not a hotel.On the way to the hotel i had already eaten the Pyaaz Kachori that  Jodhpur is famous for , Our driver stopped just before the city and we got some good ones . Mind you that didn't stop me from tasting every other kachori in my way (purely for research purposes) 

Our first spot was the Osian dunes where the Marwar Festival was being held. It was a very humble village festival where people gathered on the dunes and celebrated the full moon and enjoyed their rich cultural heritage. The Manganyars sang a beautiful bhajan and we were there, on the moon lit dunes, beautiful weather. Just a tip, be a little modestly dressed, flashy attires might call for unwanted attention. This could be given a miss if you aren’t too adventurous. Not much to eat so I can’t say much.

All through the festival, the fort has folk musicians and dancers sitting in different areas and courtyards and this is open to all visitor of the palace that too is an experience in itself.  While at the fort, do sample the Cafe Mehran and enjoy some lovely fare, the palace gift shop is also a good idea to buy a souvenir with the royal crest. I got myself a black t-shirt which has got me some good compliments.

The nice part about Jodhpur, is that the people love their food , and when you are living in old Jodhpur and ask locals to help you discover the secrets of the lanes , they warm up to you and share the treasures of these beautiful alleys . My first encounter was at seven in the morning with Shri Mishri lal Ji’s "Makhania Lassi". This is a dessert, but I had it for breakfast. No, it is no ordinary Lassi. This almost a shreekhand, topped with hand churned white butter. And the word that I can use to describe it is "Divine"

Another breakfast Speciality of Jodhpur is the Daal pakwaan. For those who have tasted the Dhakai Porota, I don’t need to say much, but for those who haven’t, the Daal is a light yellow chana daal, served with a chili pickle, onions and lemon. Pakwaan is a thin deep fried paapri of sorts only, 8 to 10 inches in diameter. So crush the Pakwaaan, pour the daal, mix and get transported to heaven. This is absolutely delicious. Also the Ghantaghar is home to the very famous Trip Advisor Omelette Waala . He makes some yummy eggs . Please don't expect a shop or a fancy restaurant, this is a roadside stall at the Ghanta Ghar, but the man is nothing short of a celebrity. Every tourist knows him. 

This was followed by "Arora ke Shahi Samose" (I am in no way related to the owners). These aren’t your regular samosa, and mind you they are loaded. Please don’t ask for chutney or dip, they might just get offended. These beauties are deep fired parcels of bliss. They are exploding with flavours and have this balance of spice, hint of sweetness, richness of dry fruits and tang of amchur. Overall it is  a true crowd-pleaser .

Jodhpur also loves it "mirchi wadas" and "koftas", Mirchi wada is Jodhpur classic and your must go early to find them being fried hot and you will absolutely love them. This is a true classic and I don’t want to say much more about it. But if you haven’t eaten a mirchi wada in Jodhpur, you haven’t been to Jodhpur. Kofta on the other hand, isn’t a curry. The bonda  or aloo wada here is called a kofta here and is a popular street snack, they come in various fillings and again are power packed, same rule applies, don’t ask for chutney.

Well, mornings in Jodhpur can be quite a sensation, but if you are at Jodhpur and you haven’t had the Rajasthani Thali, I think it is a bit unfair. Most restaurants serve a Rajasthani thali and boast of being authentic, but the true thali place where locals frequent and a there usually is a queue, is Gypsy. They have an a la carte restaurant, but on the first floor is a dining hall that serves the unlimited thali. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting much, but the churma and the sangri blew me away. The service was quick, efficient and warm.  Although the thali will serve you dessert, in the same building there is Jodhpur Sweets, which boasts of the famous rabri ka laddoo. A rabri laddoo is basically, boondi cooked in rabri till it evaporated completely leaving behind a beautiful caramelized mixture that isn’t overtly sweet but very rich and had a unique taste of its own. Another thing I tried there was the rose laddoo and the bournivita burfee, absolutely loved it. Do not forget to carry so kair sangri pickle from here too. Tell them that you want to travel and they will vacuum seal the bottle for you.

I have another major problem, if my lunch has been vegetarian; the dinner has to have non vegetarian fare.  Being in the land of the laal Maas, why think twice. The Kalinga Restaurant too came with a lot of recommendation from friends and locals. They did have a stellar laal maas but I’ve had better. What I really liked was the govind gatta that we were served. It had a beautiful dry fruit pithi stuffed in it and was in chunky brown gravy.

The food at Krishna Prakash Haveli was pretty good too. I discovered this beautiful local specialty called Rabori. First I thought it was thinly sliced papaya or papad, but then Nikhil Jib explained to me that rabri is made out of maize flour and butter milk. It is dried in the sun in thin sheets and then cooked in gravy. I picked up some for the house from the market. Also managed to get lovely mangodi (mung dumpling) which was delicious. If you are buying some local groceries, do not forget to pick up garlic chutney and some local digestives too.

Another new thing that I learnt in Jodhpur was about savoury gulab jamuns. The legendary Chhaturbhuj in Jodhpur makes sweet and savoury gulab jamuns. They aren’t as brown as I have eaten elsewhere, basically, not over fried. The jamuns are much heavier yet they melt in the mouth, the savoury ones are smaller and people buy them by the kilo to make sabzi out of it. I had a packet of garlic chutney and kept popping these beauties dry.

Another thing that the people in Jodhpur love is their namkeens. Solanki Farsan shop in old jodhpur had so much to offer that you will be spoilt for choice .they even have the option of custom making your namkeens as per your choice from their huge assortment . Do try the lemon pickle from this shop too, it is absolutely amazing.

Well, I think I have already loaded this story of with way too much cholesterol, let me just top it ups with one more ounces. When in Jodhpur, you must have the Motu ki Jalebi. These are thin "jalidaar jalebis" and they have to be eaten hot, Motu Ji as he is popularly known flaunts his belly and much as his craft.  He calls it his prosperity. I had a great chat with him and he even posed very gracefully for me.

Enough of food, now let’s talk about some shopping. If you are staying in old Jodhpur, you will be spoilt for choice, Camel leather juttis are stunning here. Don’t go for the bright shiny ones, they aren’t leather. Specifically ask the shopkeeper to twist and show, the guy will know that you know your stuff. The Ghanta Ghar market is also really good to buy bangles if you are prepared to carry them all the way back, the old houses some great antique shops, please bargain. And go early in the mooring, bargains are better. One can also buy lovely doorknobs, gift boxes, curios. The silver jewellery is stunning. Please indulge only if you understand silver, or you might end up buying machine made sterling mass produce. One gets really cheap leheriya dupattas also. If you bargain, they can come down to as low as sixty rupees

I am a chef , and I always end up buying local ingredients to cook with, so what came back with me was  Hing , Sangri, Rabori, Mangodi, Lassun Chutney , Ajwain , Methi , Phophalia, Kariya and tonnes of memories. Also not to forget four days and four kilos heaver (that isn’t my extra baggage). Everyone you know will want some "athana mirch" (a local preciality plickle) do carry some back. 

The Palace and the Fort shops have some beautiful goodies with the royal seal and the royal perfume is amazing too. Don’t worry; they all accept cards even at the ticket counters. So you have nothing to worry. If you happen to go during the Riff, please make sure you do attend one full day, from dawn to midnight. The shades of the day will change the moods of the music and the Mehrangarh at midnight is one of the most romantic places I think I have ever been to.

The RIFF by itself was absolutely enough reason for going, but the city can make you fall in love with it, while his highness was addressing the crowd at the riff, I could her murmurs of the people addressing him as Baap ji. The people of the city still have a lot of respect of the king. Of all the cites in Rajasthan that I have been to, Jodhpur remains the cleanest, most warm and absolutely gorgeous. I will be back again soon.  This time much sooner. 

Until Then, 

Ghani Khamma ...

  

Pondicherry : Peace , Palette , Paradigm

So it was that time again. I usually take short trips with my yoga friends from Mystic Yoga , from time to time. I was  all excited about this trip even before it got announced officially . Hailing from a punjabi family , you  are never expected to go on a holidays that can be described as  “ tranquil” “peaceful” “holistic” . So as children we usually went to places that were associated with “fun”. Thus, such holidays were a rare occasion . And in our busy lives , we don’t really tend to think of such vacations  either. Thanks to Mystic, I have been able to catch up with myself over the years now . A long weekend in a remote hill station  or in the outskirts always helps to refresh the soul .

Well, besides  all the peace and tranquil mumbo jumbo, I was super excited about the food. A foodie is always a foodie. And when my friends were busy planning meditation sessions, I researched on food and shopping scene of Pondi. They talked about the warmth of the people, I measured the warmth of the pizza oven . They talked about solar energy, I talked about solar power gelato . Who ever knows me well enough, I am all about food . I can talk about food all day, all night and not get bored . Food makes me happy, always .

So  the day began at 3 am, when we landed at the Chennai Airport, and to my surprise, where everything, including the café was shut. I MEAN SHUT! So outside the airport we found a lovely filter coffee stall that came as a blessing post a horrid night flight. And we were set to hit the lovely Auroville. As per their set format, we don’t ever stay in the main city. The resort chosen was the Ashoka. We had beautiful Gazebos on  the beach a little away from Auroville. That day, we got going in the direction of the Aurobindo Ashram, sat in peace by the shrine and enjoyed tranquil silence of the place. This was followed by a lovely lunch at one of the iconic colonial hotels of Pondicherry, Hotel Du Parc. The food was pretty average, so I’m  not really going to elaborate on it. 

This was followed by sitting on the rocks at the promenade. The water seemed as exited about the next couple of days as we were. There is something really playful  about  the Bay of Bengal. It calls you , touches your little toe and runs back, as you step forward, it moves a little further backward, and after a few more times, when you least expect, it envelopes all your senses with its magnanimous presence.  And this is exactly what the  waves were doing. Somewhat theatrical, each waver just lured us and welcomed us to the contrasting  peace of Pondicherry .

The night at the hotel was magical,  the sound of the waves singing you to sleep, was pure healing. Each day began with a lovely yoga session by the beach,  followed by soaking in some salty goodness of the sea and then a beautiful South Indian breakfast at the hotel .

The lunch at auroville will  remain etched in my head for long. A great melange of simplicity, freshness and a lot of love . Auroville as a town is so so positive. Where people from so many nationalities live so harmoniously with each other. Just love those cycles, hammocks, some bakeries, organic grocery stores. Simple happy life. Even the fruits here taste so good, I guess it's because that’s how nature wanted them to grow. Organic.

The frequent trips between Pondicherry, Auroville and the hotel made us stop at various stops. One of them being the Sunday market. Apparently, they say , there is nothing that is not available at this market. Mostly second hand stuff, but I did find myself some really cool MODAK moulds, and interesting back scratchers.  Also found the Red Banana or Kerala Banana, that I have never eaten before, and a tamil cousin of our puchka. The best way enjoy a city is by exploring the street food .

The trip ended with sunset at Mahabalipuram. Much to the displeasure of my guide , I was not even slightly interested in the history of the place . I was busy clicking pics of the food vendors and tasting their fare . A bonus to this was the Mamallapuram Dance Festival . A lovely range of performances showcasing  Kathak , Bharatnatyam and Odissi . The sunset , The temple and culture , perfect way to bid farewell .

 I didn’t even spare the tea stop at on the way to the airport . Adyar Ananda Bhawan was a tea and refreshment . I got myself a bag food of goodies and ended on a sweet note with some Dry fruit halwa .

I fell in love with pondicherry , the minute I read about the food scene . Some of the highlights of what we ate were as follows:

Zuka :

Absolutely loved the chocolates at this artisan chocolate shop. They had those stunning coffee truffle. mildly sweet , and a soft yet robust truffle core that cots our palette like fine silk. They even tempered their chocolate well. Tried the miniatures and the the mouse shaped Chocolate Jerry , bothe were stunning.

New Farm Fresh, ( St Theresa)  :

This baby is pizza heaven . As per the norms of the trip , we were vegetarian . You will not complain one bit post a meal at this place . I am confessing , it’s the tastiest pizza I have eaten in  my life . Mind you , I have eaten a lot of good pizza . The Sauce was perfectly tart , the seasoning was spot on , and the cheese , oh my , was perfect . A drizzle of chili oil and I was it was “ love at first bite” . The best was the Pesto Spinach Pizza , The freshness of the spinach just stole my heart .

Farm Fresh  (Auroville) :

I just fell in love with the grocery store . The chocolate they sell is mainly Mason and Co . But the cheese and the banana chips were crazy . They also serve some delicious baked goods . The Lemon Meringue Pie was like music . The tang of the lemon with the contrast of the meringue made me go silent for a while . They even make brilliant brownies , some of the best I have ever tasted .

Matri Mandir :  

First , the aparajita sharbat , light lavender in colour, full of floral goodness , and has medicinal properties. The next was the hazelnut gelato . It was mildly sweet , nutty and made with solar powered freezer . How  cool is that !  

This was followed by some curd rice with rasam and sambhar  and the stunning range of chocolates from Mason and Company .

Sunday Street Market :

I started with some Patti Samosas which were pretty nice and three types of bananas ( I Love Bananas )  The South Indian Cousin of our Puchka , Gup-Chup was quite a surprise . The water looked pretty colourless , but was loaded with flavor , piquant , spicy and had a Kanji like flavor . Simply loved it .

Mahabalipuram :

Well , the couple of hours at Mahabalipuram were like a dream come true. Started an thinly sliced raw mango . coated with chili powder . These were totapuri  mangoes , hence , the skin was thin and they were semi sweet . Next in Line were the Tapioca Chips . Oh My God , they were a riot ! crisp and so different from anything I’ve eaten before . this was followed by tiny gooseberries , they was tossed in a spice mix and tasted brilliant . I also had some sliced pineapple and smoked Palm Roots . and is all that wasn’t enough Some Boiled corn. Very fresh and different from the street food of North or Kolkata .

I am sure I will visit Pondicherry again , this time alone perhaps , Need to be a backpacker and click tonnes of pictures . And as I weave the fond memories of the trip in this story , I long for another few days, a few more dips in the sea and few more slices of that heavenly pizza . Adios !